Dino Buck...

[Moving molecules .]

Hope all is well, our new job at work is to remake the front end of a Ferrari Dino.... so we would like to make a Buck to make more of them.
we contacted the company called 3D Engineers here in the U.K. who make some very Nice Bucks and although very impressive was very expensive.
What do you Gents like to use .... Wood , metal or resin.

cheers Matt.

[neilb]

the only buck i have used is wooden which was done by a member of AMS. he is based in the Netherlands and did a great job reasonably priced, i was in no real rush so he worked it in with his other work. i did send him some vector files i bought from off the net but he advised me they are usually incorrect and provided proof by scanning a genuine car near him and comparing the two in an overlay picture. the vector file were 'pinched' in. effectively making the car narrower than it should be.

i can find his details if you would like to contact him?

[abarthdave]

Hi Niel , I see you did a buck for the nose , did you get the drawings for the whole car ?

and which model 356 ?

thanks

[neilb]

Hi Niel , I see you did a buck for the nose , did you get the drawings for the whole car ?

and which model 356 ?

thanks

it was a split screen pre-a i believe that the vector drawings were for, he then checked them against a bent window pre-a i believe which was close to him. i only had him do 1 front fender and half the nose, which he then flipped to create the front section. my plan was to create the front end and replicate the rear from the original panels while adopting the earlier engine lid openings and rear screen opening. i am yet to create any bucks for the rear panels but will do that when the outer panels are finished, gap'd and welded together.

[Peter Tommasini]

The buck does look good ,and if one can afford to have one made, it's the only way to go , also patterns and profiles taken from another car can be used and it's quite OK., it all deepens on the money involved to do the job
Peter T.

PS please post some pics on the build, we will all like to see it

[Moving molecules .]

This will be my first egg crate job and will possibly make it myself from 12 mm ply wood .
will post some pics when car is with us.

Am looking forward to some more Learning, and me and Dan will pop down to see the Gents at 3D engineers.

[skintkarter]

I know nothing Matt, so take everything I say with a large grain of salt. Surely the choice of buck material and complexity would be driven by how many copies you plan on making? Look at low volume production bucks from the 50's and 60's - they were invariably heavy wooden affairs with lots of carved detail around the tricky bits. Steel edges where panels would be repeatedly caulked etc... A mate who does a lot of high end one-off stuff said to me - the more detail you incorporate into a buck, the easier the resulting panel is to form. A really good buck may be worth more than the job on the first job, but if you plan on making 20, the the costs are amortised over the run. A guy I follow in Aussie, Mark Nugent does a lot of aircraft and big Healy stuff using resin forms - presumably caulking the shapes in or flow forming with a rivet gun.

[Moving molecules .]

I suppose like anything I’ve done before I will look at the shape with common sense and see what works with me and how I would approach it ...working out from the centreline and keeping things symmetrical....
Will be interesting to see how this baby Ferrari squares up😐😐🧐.
when I was younger the Dino was worth nothing.

also I hear on the news things have eased up in Australia ....I think it’s going to be one of those Long going viruses.

are there any good books out there who you would recommend.

[cliffrod]

Although not for panel work for customers (yet) I now produce a model, even if only a clay sketch, for every job I sculpt in stone. During my training and for many years after that, I didn't. Then I decided it was worth my time towards producing the best result possible. Your result will be better because you will better understand the shape to be produced before moving into the final material. It also provides a tangible addition to your portfolio to show future patrons. as they accrue, they all be come more valuable to have on display together if you have space to do so. Even a quick sketch in clay is worth casting to display with more diligent models. I do not sell or share my models, because once they leave my possession I have no control over them. A customer picked up a stone on Friday and tried very seriously to purchase the model. I refused, even though it would be at least $3K which I am confident he would have paid. He still wants it but the risk of it going into someone's computer files and beyond is very real. So it's not for sale.

What I did regarding my wooden bucks for metalshaping-

Making the egg crate wooden bucks, especially for the tank on my Moto Guzzi Corsa Record (see build thread under Motorcycles https://ce8df029be3e-004671.vbulleti...page4#post3266 ), worked well for me. If you're not going CAD/scan/cnc/water jet where component fitment is largely guaranteed, the approach I used on the tank buck is much more practical and forgiving than the 100% notched or cut dado fitment. Producing dadoes by adding spacers to the face of a panel is quite simple to get right. It also allows a means to separate portions of the assembled buck. I'm anxious to do more metalwork on that project more but other responsibilities have priority for the foreseeable future.

It's challenging to shape a station very well and then properly saw one or both of the notches. On the larger spine, numerous cuts all have to be done properly. Lots of opportunity for error. It's great practice if you like to practice accurate bandsaw work like I do but not as $billable labor$ practical if you're not good with the equipment and layout protocol. My seat and fender bucks were sawed with notches. All fit is very good to excellent without any bad pieces. An accurate table saw and accurate bandsaw are a must. A large belt sander is very helpful as well, if not necessary. You can do the work without these tools, but it will go slower. A hand held saber saw is fine for approximate rough cuts but the blade can easily deflect from vertical so cannot be trusted. Use a router instead of a saber saw. After any saber saw work, a band saw will provide much better accuracy. Glue is stronger than wood. I glued and screwed the dado spacers in place, but only screwed the individual stations so they could be moved, removed or replaced. I had not seen the fabricated dado method I used in any book but cannot imagine I was the first to do it. I have plywood dimensioned dado bits for my router but its faster and cheaper to fine tune a new spacer than recut a large piece because i routed the 18th of 20 dadoes wrong.... I had also not seen a bike tank buck done to split in half along the centerline so the tank tunnel shape could also be produced & used. It's simple and practical imho.

If I was building a car buck, I would do the same thing (for example) along a front fender centerline and other centerlines. Use T-nuts and bolts, alternating from each side, to attach the various pieces creating these centerlines together. The extra material used will produce a heavier buck but allows you to keep these centerlines perfect.

Page 3 of my build thread shows the tank buck pics I can't find on my computer, with halves separated after I corrected the buck. These are pics of the initial buck development in plywood. hope this helps.