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  • Planishing hammer- floor frame build

    I'm still in the planning stages but would like input from some here who have already bought/built planishing hammers. I would rather have this discussion here than elsewhere.

    When I got my Gairu/pullmax in Aug, I also got an original CP 528 fender iron planishing hammer with two hand held frames. Runs great. I have a set of Bill Tromblay's Delrin tooling for it that I really like. I want to build a free standing floor frame for this power head, probably about 25 inches deep to match the throat depth of my English wheel. Doubt I'll find an original CP 24" machine and confident I couldn't afford one if it was market price. I would like to mimic the design of an original CB with post mount and adjustability. I've seen pics of the CP floor model with 12" throat that uses this same clamp-in power head. Not expecting to find one of those cheap either but that looks like a viable design to fabricate extended with a deeper throat.

    Has anyone got advice from experience, especially something they wouldn't do again if they built another one? I have some understanding about the need for an accurate hit point, but not sure how materials flex, oscillate & lozenging, square vs round vs rectangular vs I or H beam and such things play into the forces related to a planishing hammer. I have looked at some larger floor drill press for base & post and similar construction old equipment for the basic framework to equip with arms made from ?? I can probably source such a machine from scrap for cheap, then add arms. No formal machining capacity here in house- just cut, weld and carving it by hand..

    Any advice?

  • #2
    Dunno if it is of any help Cliff, but this is what I did on the side of my homebuilt wheel. Simply some offcuts of 4"x4' x 0.250" that I had left over from a house build. Clamping system is borrowed from Kent's design and the post sits on a sandwiched piece of 3/8 closed cell foam we had lying around from our karting (seat padding) days.


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    Cheers, Richard

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    • #3
      Thanks, Richard. It does. I'm not planning to go full-tilt shaping with my machine, just smoothing. Knowing what works for others helps. I would like to build it once and not spend years redesigning it.

      I like Ben's Mechhammer, especially with the swing-away arms and know that machine's arms aren't massive.

      Comment


      • #4
        Cliff, this one hinges flat back against the wheel if need be. There are a couple of tabs on the other side with M12 or M12 capscrews which clamp the APH to the spine of the wheel. This one doesn't work all that well (well at least in my hands) as it's just an old air chisel I'd been given as opposed to a proper rivet hammer. Also, at the risk of creating a furore, my dies are full radius that I knocked up using a radius stick in my old lathe (so no flats) and are pretty aggressive on aluminium.
        Cheers, Richard

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by cliffrod View Post
          I'm still in the planning stages but would like input from some here who have already bought/built planishing hammers. I would rather have this discussion here than elsewhere.

          When I got my Gairu/pullmax in Aug, I also got an original CP 528 fender iron planishing hammer with two hand held frames. Runs great. I have a set of Bill Tromblay's Delrin tooling for it that I really like. I want to build a free standing floor frame for this power head, probably about 25 inches deep to match the throat depth of my English wheel. Doubt I'll find an original CP 24" machine and confident I couldn't afford one if it was market price. I would like to mimic the design of an original CB with post mount and adjustability. I've seen pics of the CP floor model with 12" throat that uses this same clamp-in power head. Not expecting to find one of those cheap either but that looks like a viable design to fabricate extended with a deeper throat.

          Has anyone got advice from experience, especially something they wouldn't do again if they built another one? I have some understanding about the need for an accurate hit point, but not sure how materials flex, oscillate & lozenging, square vs round vs rectangular vs I or H beam and such things play into the forces related to a planishing hammer. I have looked at some larger floor drill press for base & post and similar construction old equipment for the basic framework to equip with arms made from ?? I can probably source such a machine from scrap for cheap, then add arms. No formal machining capacity here in house- just cut, weld and carving it by hand..

          Any advice?
          Hi Cliff ..talk to Will and see if he still has the video I send him about the air hammer attachment used on the handbuilt frame , it might be a better way to go for you ?
          Cheers
          Peter

          Comment


          • #6
            Will do, Peter.

            Comment


            • #7
              A new option just popped up a few miles down the road. I'm thinking about repurposing this staple machine's cast iron frame to use my CP head


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              Current dimensions are approx 48" tall (cast iron, not counting mechanisms or motor), 16" throat depth, 8" max throat height and 34" height of base. Weight as shown is 300 lbs. I considering to remove the top mechanism, add a receiver for my motor and make a new lower arm. Configured like that, Throat depth would be around 24" and if I make a riser (to which the lower arm is welded) i could increase throat height to around 12" tall. Right now I'm trying to meet with him tomorrow afternoon. If there's any opinions before then, I would appreciate them.

              It's pretty cheap, way less than building something comparable from scratch or to kit my HandBuilt frame. As is, it makes me think of the pullmax/reciprocating configuration.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
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ID:	3616 I'm always trying to improve mine, the latest bottom toolholder screws down on a 1" NF gr8 allthread, the die holder has the long shank nut & the oversize jam nut, I use 2' long wrenches to tighten the jam nut, I'll make a proper set for it once I know its the way it'll stay. I set the stroke length just enough to planish with minimum stretch.
                Oops, first picture post.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I still want to fabricate a pair if 24" or 27" arms to replicate a 24" CP floor unit, but needed to get mine operational to use it on the R350 seat. The larger original CP hoop that came with my regular CP fender iron planishing hammer is now mounted to a spare Tronomatic floor frame I've had for years. The compact bender I got last year made short work of bending up nice bracket pieces. A more square/rectangular hoop should be easily installed with the same mounts and provide better throat than this one. Bill Tromblay's Delrin upper and lowers work great.

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                  The base of the mount is large enough to mount a plate for the waiting regulator & water filter plus a holder for lowers. A pedal to actuate it still needs to be made but all seems to work well.
                  Last edited by cliffrod; 11-12-20, 09:40 PM. Reason: typo

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                  • #10
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                    Just been on Peter’s site, does look the nuts....
                    And like the idea you can change it to a smaller English Wheel ( just out of interest does the English Wheel switch over design come with smaller wheels I believe Pete has a small framed wheeling machine)

                    Chicago Pneumatic products are not easy to find in the UK.

                    Can you ship too the U.K.
                    https://www.precisionpanelcraft.co.uk/

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by skintkarter View Post
                      Dunno if it is of any help Cliff, but this is what I did on the side of my homebuilt wheel. Simply some offcuts of 4"x4' x 0.250" that I had left over from a house build. Clamping system is borrowed from Kent's design and the post sits on a sandwiched piece of 3/8 closed cell foam we had lying around from our karting (seat padding) days.


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                      Liking this design.... what would you change?
                      is it just the make of riveter.
                      https://www.precisionpanelcraft.co.uk/

                      Comment


                      • skintkarter
                        skintkarter commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Dunno mate, I haven't had much seat time on this. Possibly it's that its just an air chisel, perhaps its my dies or perhaps my technique.

                    • #12
                      Originally posted by Moving molecules . View Post
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                      Just been on Peter’s site, does look the nuts....
                      And like the idea you can change it to a smaller English Wheel ( just out of interest does the English Wheel switch over design come with smaller wheels I believe Pete has a small framed wheeling machine)

                      Chicago Pneumatic products are not easy to find in the UK.

                      Can you ship too the U.K.
                      i can say peter's power hammer conversion is fantastic and able to be switched over in less than 5 minutes
                      thanks neil

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Originally posted by neilb View Post

                        i can say peter's power hammer conversion is fantastic and able to be switched over in less than 5 minutes
                        Cheers Neil, such a neat idea, We need a second wheel / planishing hammer which is lower in height for Chinese Wheeling, would also be great for taking to local events , Hooe Classic car Show and a New Coffee & Cars Company set up in old Beaulieu cars show premises if 2021 is in a good place.

                        checkout B Road Hunting Club on your modern formats.
                        Last edited by Moving molecules .; 12-12-20, 01:30 PM.
                        https://www.precisionpanelcraft.co.uk/

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          I have been working on a project to make a standing planishing hammer using an electric rotary hammer. It is basically made from 100 mm pine using 20mm threaded rod to hold it together. I found a nice trailer jack to hold the lower anvil. I have done some trial work with it already and it is rock solid when hammering. I will post some more photos later today. I wanted to try the wood structure to to see if it would be strong enough and if it would be less noisy than my chicom pneumatic one.

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                          • #15
                            i like that, Steve. Did you glue the joints?

                            my cp hoop flexes quite a bit, probably far more than your wooden frame will flex. it will still stretch aluminum, but probably not as much as a more rigid frame.

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