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Planishing hammer- floor frame build

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  • Planishing hammer- floor frame build

    I'm still in the planning stages but would like input from some here who have already bought/built planishing hammers. I would rather have this discussion here than elsewhere.

    When I got my Gairu/pullmax in Aug, I also got an original CP 528 fender iron planishing hammer with two hand held frames. Runs great. I have a set of Bill Tromblay's Delrin tooling for it that I really like. I want to build a free standing floor frame for this power head, probably about 25 inches deep to match the throat depth of my English wheel. Doubt I'll find an original CP 24" machine and confident I couldn't afford one if it was market price. I would like to mimic the design of an original CB with post mount and adjustability. I've seen pics of the CP floor model with 12" throat that uses this same clamp-in power head. Not expecting to find one of those cheap either but that looks like a viable design to fabricate extended with a deeper throat.

    Has anyone got advice from experience, especially something they wouldn't do again if they built another one? I have some understanding about the need for an accurate hit point, but not sure how materials flex, oscillate & lozenging, square vs round vs rectangular vs I or H beam and such things play into the forces related to a planishing hammer. I have looked at some larger floor drill press for base & post and similar construction old equipment for the basic framework to equip with arms made from ?? I can probably source such a machine from scrap for cheap, then add arms. No formal machining capacity here in house- just cut, weld and carving it by hand..

    Any advice?

  • #2
    Dunno if it is of any help Cliff, but this is what I did on the side of my homebuilt wheel. Simply some offcuts of 4"x4' x 0.250" that I had left over from a house build. Clamping system is borrowed from Kent's design and the post sits on a sandwiched piece of 3/8 closed cell foam we had lying around from our karting (seat padding) days.


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    Cheers, Richard

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    • #3
      Thanks, Richard. It does. I'm not planning to go full-tilt shaping with my machine, just smoothing. Knowing what works for others helps. I would like to build it once and not spend years redesigning it.

      I like Ben's Mechhammer, especially with the swing-away arms and know that machine's arms aren't massive.

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      • #4
        Cliff, this one hinges flat back against the wheel if need be. There are a couple of tabs on the other side with M12 or M12 capscrews which clamp the APH to the spine of the wheel. This one doesn't work all that well (well at least in my hands) as it's just an old air chisel I'd been given as opposed to a proper rivet hammer. Also, at the risk of creating a furore, my dies are full radius that I knocked up using a radius stick in my old lathe (so no flats) and are pretty aggressive on aluminium.
        Cheers, Richard

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        • #5
          Originally posted by cliffrod View Post
          I'm still in the planning stages but would like input from some here who have already bought/built planishing hammers. I would rather have this discussion here than elsewhere.

          When I got my Gairu/pullmax in Aug, I also got an original CP 528 fender iron planishing hammer with two hand held frames. Runs great. I have a set of Bill Tromblay's Delrin tooling for it that I really like. I want to build a free standing floor frame for this power head, probably about 25 inches deep to match the throat depth of my English wheel. Doubt I'll find an original CP 24" machine and confident I couldn't afford one if it was market price. I would like to mimic the design of an original CB with post mount and adjustability. I've seen pics of the CP floor model with 12" throat that uses this same clamp-in power head. Not expecting to find one of those cheap either but that looks like a viable design to fabricate extended with a deeper throat.

          Has anyone got advice from experience, especially something they wouldn't do again if they built another one? I have some understanding about the need for an accurate hit point, but not sure how materials flex, oscillate & lozenging, square vs round vs rectangular vs I or H beam and such things play into the forces related to a planishing hammer. I have looked at some larger floor drill press for base & post and similar construction old equipment for the basic framework to equip with arms made from ?? I can probably source such a machine from scrap for cheap, then add arms. No formal machining capacity here in house- just cut, weld and carving it by hand..

          Any advice?
          Hi Cliff ..talk to Will and see if he still has the video I send him about the air hammer attachment used on the handbuilt frame , it might be a better way to go for you ?
          Cheers
          Peter

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          • #6
            Will do, Peter.

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            • #7
              A new option just popped up a few miles down the road. I'm thinking about repurposing this staple machine's cast iron frame to use my CP head


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              Current dimensions are approx 48" tall (cast iron, not counting mechanisms or motor), 16" throat depth, 8" max throat height and 34" height of base. Weight as shown is 300 lbs. I considering to remove the top mechanism, add a receiver for my motor and make a new lower arm. Configured like that, Throat depth would be around 24" and if I make a riser (to which the lower arm is welded) i could increase throat height to around 12" tall. Right now I'm trying to meet with him tomorrow afternoon. If there's any opinions before then, I would appreciate them.

              It's pretty cheap, way less than building something comparable from scratch or to kit my HandBuilt frame. As is, it makes me think of the pullmax/reciprocating configuration.
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              • #8
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ID:	3616 I'm always trying to improve mine, the latest bottom toolholder screws down on a 1" NF gr8 allthread, the die holder has the long shank nut & the oversize jam nut, I use 2' long wrenches to tighten the jam nut, I'll make a proper set for it once I know its the way it'll stay. I set the stroke length just enough to planish with minimum stretch.
                Oops, first picture post.

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