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Butt Welds and trim gaps

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  • abarthdave
    replied
    Truck looks great , too nice to use as a truck !

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  • neilb
    replied
    looking fantastic robert, attention to detail shows, hope the show goes well, thanks for posting

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  • MP&C
    replied
    Thanks Clint!!


    This past Friday night we cut and buffed the F7 hood to get rid of some dust nibs, and Saturday morning Jared and I started to reassemble the hood. The horn wiring had some dry and cracking insulation sleeving, so it was replaced as well.








    John stopped by mid morning and we got all the parts put back together and adjusted. Looks much better with the hood back on, John has been driving without one for a couple months.














    All ready for the Tri-state Antique Truck Show this week in Clear Brook VA..

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  • cliffrod
    commented on 's reply
    Looks really great, Robert.

  • MP&C
    replied
    Thanks Charlie!


    So every time we place the hood on my folding stand, the hood skin deflects upward at those pressure points (corners). Which means that won't work for blocking out the hood. So lets' use the same supports that the hood uses and make a blocking "stand".

    Large 5/8" bolt through the hood latch hole for supporting the nose...





    And going through our scrap inventory, here's some tubing we used for the back end, bolted into the hinge support. The extra "feet" help to stabilize it so the sanding effort won't try and flop it over...














    With that done, all our open holes are taped over and the entire bottom side masked off to protect the inside finish..








    A bit of Evercoat 416 to address some lows, and 3 coats of SPI epoxy for the next round of blocking on the outside.








    Blocking...





    Some booth clean up and fresh masking on the table, hood pre-cleaned and tacked.....





    Sealed with SPI Epoxy thinned about 10%





    Fleet paint that was used originally on the truck, supplied by owner. Orange peel in a can..





    2 coats of color, 2 coats of SPI Universal Clear...





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  • Chazza
    replied
    "No Bog, just epoxy primer, basecoat, and clearcoat. Looks almost factory!!"

    I bet it never looked as good then as it does now. Beautiful work!

    Cheers Charlie

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  • Moving molecules .
    replied
    Originally posted by MP&C View Post
    Matt, I've never used the blue PowerTec clamps, do you have them yourself?



    Thought I'd do a progression of pictures to show the carnage we started with on the hood brace to where it was painted this past weekend....




















    Note the wings left adjacent to the weld to act as heat sinks and prevent the edge from burning back...











    No Bog, just epoxy primer, basecoat, and clearcoat. Looks almost factory!!


    spot on work .... l love a thinker... Is that the right word not great with words....

    Yes Robert is Rob OK.... I have got a set of blue clamps ...... they’re Okkkk.... but I also modify them as well..... making the tag a bit thinner.πŸ˜‰.

    cheers Matt.... UK.

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  • neilb
    replied
    great work robert, always nice to see paint on, thanks for posting

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  • MP&C
    replied
    Matt, I've never used the blue PowerTec clamps, do you have them yourself?



    Thought I'd do a progression of pictures to show the carnage we started with on the hood brace to where it was painted this past weekend....




















    Note the wings left adjacent to the weld to act as heat sinks and prevent the edge from burning back...











    No Bog, just epoxy primer, basecoat, and clearcoat. Looks almost factory!!


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  • Moving molecules .
    replied
    May l also be bold to ask you for some help with our new TRUMF 501 PullMax.... Have a lot to learn about the tooling....πŸ‘πŸ˜‰

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  • Moving molecules .
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	D563DC9A-6944-4F93-9EE2-8FAEDC6476E7.jpeg
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ID:	4101Click image for larger version  Name:	F7345953-0D15-4579-88EE-EAE9F73002F1.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	717.2 KB ID:	4098Click image for larger version  Name:	15901863-5B32-4B5A-981F-7AC74FF4B4B1.jpeg Views:	1 Size:	899.9 KB ID:	4100 Yes little magnets from EBay... great for paper patterns & checking to see if that little panel sits nicely on its own accord...

    But as we all have had experience with welding magnets ... magnets can cause havoc with TIG and MIG welding Arc.

    But if careful with spacing πŸ˜‰l now use 1” round strong magnets for Tacking up if you cannot use grips

    But my ideal method of clamping a panel is with modified vice grips .... with the tips welded together ... then cleaned up with 10mm belt file ... then cut through the weld cleanly.

    this creates a clamp like the ones with swivel feet but my ones are solid.

    So as long as you get your metal thickness right ... and have a very very slight Welding gap with TIG or mig you can guarantee a 100% finish on the back of the Panel .

    do you like the Blue PowerTec clamps???.

    May l also compliment you on your workmanship and your willingness to go that extra mile for the details.

    cheers Matt. UK
    Last edited by Moving molecules .; 01-09-20, 10:49 PM.

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  • MP&C
    replied
    Originally posted by Moving molecules . View Post
    Click image for larger version Name:	DEA7251D-7386-43D6-8582-7C71F9B87D15.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	762.3 KB ID:	4070Click image for larger version Name:	F2FE1931-03FE-4BE8-8653-FDB1C9F81B60.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	950.2 KB ID:	4071Click image for larger version Name:	DF2EB84D-C534-4538-93B6-566292EC7BCE.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.48 MB ID:	4069Click image for larger version Name:	0DAAE32F-01EC-4CCA-B12C-1EEC15B6F67D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	636.2 KB ID:	4067Click image for larger version Name:	15AADC14-3A57-4C42-8F96-3928B1799278.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.11 MB ID:	4068
    Are those magnets you are using?

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  • Moving molecules .
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	424CCA0E-3752-4570-80E1-8FA939D93198.jpeg
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ID:	4073 Top Panel is from that Ferrari 275 GTS we did earlier this year, butt welding 0.75mm New lower front wings, Door skins etc.

    And lower pics are from a 1958 Karmann Ghia lowlight convertible ... where somebody in the history of the car put in the Nicer looking teardrop rear Lamps.
    As a New Company the client was testing my skills and I hopefully passed.....πŸ‘ .... so now will be restoring this car to a historical OEM Finish.
    Last edited by Moving molecules .; 31-08-20, 10:31 PM.

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  • Moving molecules .
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	DEA7251D-7386-43D6-8582-7C71F9B87D15.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	762.3 KB ID:	4070Click image for larger version  Name:	F2FE1931-03FE-4BE8-8653-FDB1C9F81B60.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	950.2 KB ID:	4071Click image for larger version  Name:	DF2EB84D-C534-4538-93B6-566292EC7BCE.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.48 MB ID:	4069Click image for larger version  Name:	0DAAE32F-01EC-4CCA-B12C-1EEC15B6F67D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	636.2 KB ID:	4067Click image for larger version  Name:	15AADC14-3A57-4C42-8F96-3928B1799278.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.11 MB ID:	4068

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  • MP&C
    replied
    Thanks for the kind words fellas..... The 51 F7 hood is closer to reuniting with the brace with the newly repaired ends.. Epoxy primer will be under the brace this time around to help prevent the new side patches from rusting again..

















    Some blocking tips on the F7 hood. We have a nice crease on the inside of the hood from front to back. These scratches show that we would be taking material off the adjacent side if no other steps were taken to stop our sanding block at the center of the crease...





    By adding a strip of tape along the center, it gives us a positive stop for the sanding block..





    Then switching for the other side....





    Which leaves us a nice crease in the middle, and panels nice and flat to either side...





    Final blocking on the inside using tape to keep the center line sharp, then brace welded in place and some epoxy touch ups done..











    With the touch ups blocked, we're ready for some Epoxy/sealer, some PPG ESSS base, and my first time spraying SPI Universal... WooHoo! love this clear!!





    These Ford truck hoods can be a pain to get good paint coverage inside the nose.. So a couple pieces of TIG wire from our rack to the hood brackets hold it up in the air so we can get into the nose with the spray gun..





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