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Butt Welds and trim gaps

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  • #16
    Like the top Tipping wheel... We have just bought Baileigh,s tipping wheel which is in my opinion a bad design.... Will look to make one like yours. You need that Flush design. .... or like the Lazze ones.


    • #17
      Time to get the hood brace end welded in place. The overall measurement had been taken prior to cutting off the old one, down to the 14 gauge outer plate as a reference. So the new end is trimmed to match this dimension, then held in place with rare earth magnets. The center (inside) rib is aligned and tacked using the TIG....

      Working outward, the panel surfaces are aligned and tacked as we go. Note the "batwings" left on the outside of the new brace end (yellow arrows). This will act as a heat sink when we make the outer tacks. Had these been trimmed to match prior to welding, the edge will have a tendency to burn back from the heat.

      The entire seam is TIG welded and then our batwings are trimmed using offset snips, then welds dressed..

      One down......


      • #18
        Starting on the other end of the hood brace, this one not as rotted as the other but has issues just the same. One of those "while we're here" things....

        The ribs are trimmed and ends rounded.. A piece of flat 16 gauge is trimmed to fit..

        tacked together....

        ….then the photographer went on strike until we got to this...

        We'll get this trimmed and installed tomorrow..


        • #19
          Nice work and explanations Robert!


          • #20
            Gee whiz you are good at this!


            • #21
              Well done Robert ! Thank you for posting


              • #22
                Thanks for the comments guys!

                More progress on the hood, here is the other end of the hood brace.

                Looking at the back side, you can see where a few holes were welded closed the last time it was painted, and the severe pitting and new holes that we have. A testament to the fact that what shows is always the tip of the iceberg. Although better than the passenger side, this is definitely one of those "while we are here" things. Do it right, do it once. (grinder marks were mine)

                With our new replacement all one piece, the next step is to bend the flange that spot welds to the hood skin. A tipping wheel in the Fasti-werks bead roller makes quick work of it. The bend line was transposed from the original and an initial pass under the tipping die marks the crease line a bit better, Then successive passes are made, lifting slightly with each pass. This is done until the beads interfere with the tipping die.

                Then the partial bent flange is clamped in the magnetic brake for the remainder of the fold. This brake allows us to use a die on either side of the bead details, where a full die may inadvertently push in on the beads.

                End gets cut to length and marked for initial trimming

                Looks like we may have enough bead stock left for another couple of ends.

                That's where we left off yesterday, we'll see about welding the new end on today..



                • #23
                  Our last end for the hood brace. Off with the old.....

                  Then it gets trimmed to our scribe line and the end media blasted in prep for welding. Our new end is test fit and trimmed until we get the right distance to our reference marks. The "batwings" give us a heat sink at the edge for less chance of burning back the edge at the weld.

                  The center rib is aligned both on the sides and the face, and tacked in position using the TIG.

                  The pieces are aligned as we work outward, tacking as we go. A "corking tool" is used as a dolly where any bumping may be needed for alignment.



                  Welds cleaned up and end angles compared..

                  Now we can get back to straightening sheet metal..


                  • #24
                    thank you for posting robert, first class as always

                    i've never left any material on for a heat sink when welding 2 parts together, i will now
                    thanks neil


                    • #25
                      Thanks Neil!

                      We have a few more spots to fix from cracking and fatigue, namely the holes on the underside for the rubber hood bumpers. We've already repaired three, and from the looks of it, need to take care of the remaining three..

                      18 Gauge x 1/4" plugs were TIG welded in to fill the existing holes, and a copper backer gives us a bit of a heat sink so the cracks/fatigued areas don't blow a big hole on us..

                      Welds were dressed on both sides of the sheet metal, and new holes drilled slightly in farther from the edge to help slow down the reappearance of cracks.

                      Next, I'm sure everyone has seen how these hoods can oil can, show low spots, and try to flop around while driving down the road. Part of that is abuse over the years, fatigue, etc. Any low spots invariably result in a loss of support of the hood and will show oil cans or loose areas.

                      A good tool to check the crown of the hood is a long straight edge in the form of a 36" rule. If you don't have one, most hardware stores sell aluminum flat bar for a few dollars that will make a good profile template. For this style hood, lows are bad, straight is better, and a slight crown in the center crease along the entire length of the "flat" area of the hood is optimal.. This gives the support to help eliminate those oil cans and floppy hoods.

                      When we started there was an obvious area about 12" forward of the rear edge, dead center, that appears low, and was easily pushed downward. In order to better define the center crease and provide the support needed, we will use a sand bag (a rather large one) and lightly hammer from the bottom side into said bag with a purpose built "punch".

                      In order to keep the back portion of the hood down against the bag for support, we used our latest "metalshaping" tool to hold the front of the hood up, an engine hoist..

                      A reference mark is used on the inside, measured and centered...

                      The crease was checked for low spots prior, and the bottom marked. The "punch" is dragged along the centerline and tapped as you go. Flip the hood over, check crown, remark as needed, repeat. We got to a good straight/slight crown and the oil can disappeared. Pushing along the entire center crease was a nice tight support now..

                      So if you are having issue with your hood, I would suggest first checking your center crease.


                      • #26
                        Very cool. This is a great lesson, Robert. Thanks for so clearly posting this detail work.


                        • #27
                          Oh the joy of fixing something so irritating, with simplest of tools coupled to a good brain!

                          Great job Robert,

                          Cheers Charlie


                          • #28
                            Thanks for the kind words fellas..... The 51 F7 hood is closer to reuniting with the brace with the newly repaired ends.. Epoxy primer will be under the brace this time around to help prevent the new side patches from rusting again..

                            Some blocking tips on the F7 hood. We have a nice crease on the inside of the hood from front to back. These scratches show that we would be taking material off the adjacent side if no other steps were taken to stop our sanding block at the center of the crease...

                            By adding a strip of tape along the center, it gives us a positive stop for the sanding block..

                            Then switching for the other side....

                            Which leaves us a nice crease in the middle, and panels nice and flat to either side...

                            Final blocking on the inside using tape to keep the center line sharp, then brace welded in place and some epoxy touch ups done..

                            With the touch ups blocked, we're ready for some Epoxy/sealer, some PPG ESSS base, and my first time spraying SPI Universal... WooHoo! love this clear!!

                            These Ford truck hoods can be a pain to get good paint coverage inside the nose.. So a couple pieces of TIG wire from our rack to the hood brackets hold it up in the air so we can get into the nose with the spray gun..


                            • #29
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	DEA7251D-7386-43D6-8582-7C71F9B87D15.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	762.3 KB ID:	4070Click image for larger version  Name:	F2FE1931-03FE-4BE8-8653-FDB1C9F81B60.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	950.2 KB ID:	4071Click image for larger version  Name:	DF2EB84D-C534-4538-93B6-566292EC7BCE.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.48 MB ID:	4069Click image for larger version  Name:	0DAAE32F-01EC-4CCA-B12C-1EEC15B6F67D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	636.2 KB ID:	4067Click image for larger version  Name:	15AADC14-3A57-4C42-8F96-3928B1799278.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	2.11 MB ID:	4068


                              • #30
                                Click image for larger version

Name:	424CCA0E-3752-4570-80E1-8FA939D93198.jpeg
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ID:	4073 Top Panel is from that Ferrari 275 GTS we did earlier this year, butt welding 0.75mm New lower front wings, Door skins etc.

                                And lower pics are from a 1958 Karmann Ghia lowlight convertible ... where somebody in the history of the car put in the Nicer looking teardrop rear Lamps.
                                As a New Company the client was testing my skills and I hopefully passed.....👍 .... so now will be restoring this car to a historical OEM Finish.
                                Last edited by Moving molecules .; 31-08-20, 10:31 PM.