Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1928 Indian fuel tank

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1928 Indian fuel tank

    Hi all,
    i decided to try making a replacement fuel tank and started with what I thought might be one of the harder parts. All done with s shot bag and some wheeling and tuck shrinking. I was able to capture the shape pretty well, but needs a little more work at the aft end radius.
    if the green color looks familiar, I cut down a castrol oil drum for the material as it turned out to be the same thickness. Click image for larger version  Name:	1E08B957-B83F-4ED3-A4FA-33C18C7215ED.jpeg Views:	6 Size:	1.43 MB ID:	5852
    Click image for larger version

Name:	image_2133.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	1.24 MB
ID:	5853
    Last edited by Steve Murphy; 29-03-21, 08:30 AM.

  • #2
    Nice !
    Peter T.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Peter. I had it mostly done and I watched your videos on the Austin Healy quarter and went back over it again. Using some of your tips I got it to fit much closer. Cheers Steve

      Comment


      • #4
        The tank is looking very good, Steve.

        Are you planning to make the entire tank or just repair portions? Is the original tank soldered like some others in that time frame? are you planning to solder or weld? Just curious.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Cliff,
          i am going to make a complete new tank. And probably reuse the many fittings. At this stage I am planning on using solder on the tanks and fittings. I will need to research different solder types as I think I will use higher melting point solder on the oil compartment and all the fittings. And lower melting point on the center seam joint
          regards,

          Steve

          Comment


          • #6
            Very cool. I regularly solder with varying grades of solder like this. Works great. I usually use a real silver solder (like silver ribbon/tape) for the initial or deepest connections and then work my way out with progressively lower temp solders. Some is more braze than solder in proper terms. usually 2 or 3 different alloys are all that are needed, especially if the part can be adequately rotated to isolate the heat.

            I've not done a tank in crs like this yet. After watching Jim make terneplate for some of his fuel tanks to limit rust issues, I would be tempted to do the same with motorcycle tank pieces destined to be soldered instead of welded. It should be feasible to tin them on internal surfaces after shaping without losing shape (?) No idea if the original tank pieces were terne or not.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Cliff, just bare rusty steel inside the tank. I have considered tinning the entire inside of the tank for some corrosion protection. I might go belt and suspenders and redkote the tank too.
              Right now I am working on a reversible 1/2 tank buck for assembly and joining the pieces. I like the buck you made for the Guzzi.
              cheers Steve

              Comment


              • #8
                This sounds crazy, but it works.

                The inside of fuel tanks can be coated with the PVC glue, the same as used by plumbers on drain pipes. I have used it with success to stop a leaky tank and to stop the rust getting into the filter.

                I was dubious when told about it, so I put some glue in a rusty tin, allowed it to harden for a day or two and then filled it with petrol. 2 weeks later – with topping up with fresh petrol – I drained and inspected the coating. No degradation at all; no blue in the petrol; a firm thin coating well stuck to the surface.

                Might be an option for you Cliffy.

                If anyone wants a Word doc I wrote on the matter, send me a PM,

                Cheers Charlie

                Comment


                • #9
                  Steve
                  Another method would be to thin all the panel prior to put them together by using the same compound used on lead loading ,then wash all panels with bi carbon of soda and very hot water , then put the tank together with 50 / 50 solder ....any spot welding or any other welding must be done first ! OR.... leave those areas free of tin , OR make top of the tank , sides ,any baffles weld them together then tin , then solder bottom to the rest .once finished fill the whole tank again and wash again
                  Peter T.
                  Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 12-04-21, 09:05 AM.

                  Comment


                  • Steve Murphy
                    Steve Murphy commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks Peter, good advice!
                Working...
                X