Capturing tucks

[Chris_Hamilton]

Perhaps Peter or others could explain the process a little more. Specifically when Peter in the DVD #8 starts hammering his tucks he is using a conventional cross peen at the top of the tuck. I understand what he is doing but I don't understand exactly how to hammer to actually consistently capture the tuck especially as the tucks get smaller (as seen when Peter posted pics on AMS of tuck shrinking around a sunroof). I find those very hard to capture with the hammer. Larger ones it's hit or miss because I don't understand what to actually look for as I am hammering trying to capture the tuck.
Peter or anyone else have anything they can share to enlighten me? Thanks.

[Peter Tommasini]

Chris make the Tuck (not too high) then when with the hammer and a suitable dolly behind narrow the tuck till the outer edges are again level to each other, then little by little (meaning ) a small bite at the time ,starting from the top and hit the tuck down. To refresh your memory have a look at making Monaro quarter dvd (under shaping door jam), yours been smaller tucks there is no need to start the tack up the top with a dolly..... (that is used only when the tuck needs to be long)....... just use the tuck iron and take the tuck down with the heel of the hammer
Peter T.

[Chris_Hamilton]

Thank you Peter.

[Kiwi john]

Hi Chris. An “ah ha” moment for me was when Pete explained “ use the HEEL of the hammer “. Mine used to go every where until that simple little clarification made things come together. Ask Pete to explain changing the “ Y “ to an “ I “ part of the process as it’s another piece of the puzzle ! Cheers Johnny leftie

[Peter Tommasini]

Chris yea... I forgot... when you put the tuck with the tucking fork a shape resembling an Y will show at the end of the tuck ,the first thing you need to know is to lock that point using the hammer by hitting side to side of the Y till it became an I..... then..... go ahead and start at that point ,and take the tuck down all the way to the end
Peter T.

PS thank you John for remind me, I am getting old you know LOL

[Kiwi john]

Pete. I know you are getting old my friend but that’s the reason you have to pass on the knowledge. Don’t allow it to be filtered by others that haven’t done anything near 180000 hours in this game. We are indebted to you guys for sharing your life long skills. It is a privilege for us to help you impart your experience and skill. Maybe if David Gardiner and Geoff Moss could join us it would be a fair tribute to the hours you guys have contributed over the years !! Proud to be a student. Johnny

[kenc]

Peter, you are behind the times. You need a "shrinking facilitator". :-)

[Peter Tommasini]

Yes Ken... I need to keep up with, and start doing things with this marvelous technology LOL ...after all , soon we will be in the Year 2020
Peter T.

[Chris_Hamilton]

Chris yea... I forgot... when you put the tuck with the tucking fork a shape resembling an Y will show at the end of the tuck ,the first thing you need to know is to lock that point using the hammer by hitting side to side of the Y till it became an I..... then..... go ahead and start at that point ,and take the tuck down all the way to the end
Peter T.

PS thank you John for remind me, I am getting old you know LOL

Just to make sure I understand, hitting the "Y" side to side, evenly I assume and getting it to a point or an "I" is what the purpose is behind using the cross peen and also the key to locking it down? I think that's what I missed when watching the DVD #8. I will practice that. As for when the tuck/pucker is small as with that sunroof pic you shared, are you still capturing it with the same method?

[Peter Tommasini]

Chris the method in making a good tuck is the same whether the tuck is 10 mm or 200 mm long , the closing of the Y I is to lock it in immediately, so it does not open back up wile you taking it down all the way.
What ever you do ...DO NOT try to lock it from the front (like a lot of guys do) .....in another words lock it in from the Y end not at the edges of the sheet where it's wider
Peter T.

[MP&C]