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  • Chris_Hamilton
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Tommasini View Post

    Chris you are on the right track do as you mention after turning all the edges you can still wheel shape if you need to just kick the anvil a little so you can wheel close to the edges.
    Thank you Peter.

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Tommasini
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris_Hamilton View Post
    Before I start on doing the rear panel as shown in John's photos.......again (I have made a pile of scrap...very discouraging) I want to go over my procedures and maybe Peter or others can correct me.

    1.Wheel the shape fully into the blank, make sure it is correct side to side and front to back.

    2. Turn down the first fold using the flat anvil in the Wheel.

    Should I turn it partially and then shrink then turn some more...etc. or do I turn it down fully then shrink the edge to gain back the shape? Peter could you explain a little more about how shrinking the edge makes the panel tight? I don't fully understand this as if the panel is the correct shape before then shrinking it should bring it back to that shape (at least that's what I thought).

    3. After shrinking and getting the roof profile correct again (side to side, and front to back) then turn the second fold back up.

    Can I use the flat anvil in the wheel to do this? Turn up gradually and wheel the edge to stretch it.

    If I do this correctly the panel will maintain it's shape? Can I still wheel the panel (if needed) after making the second turn up? Or should I control the shape by stretching that edge only?


    Sorry for all the questions but I am getting frustrated failing so many times.
    Chris you are on the right track do as you mention after turning all the edges you can still wheel shape if you need to just kick the anvil a little so you can wheel close to the edges.

    Leave a comment:


  • galderdi
    replied
    This is a great thread, You are making me miss my 240. But if I kept it I would not be learning all this metal shaping

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris_Hamilton
    replied
    Before I start on doing the rear panel as shown in John's photos.......again (I have made a pile of scrap...very discouraging) I want to go over my procedures and maybe Peter or others can correct me.

    1.Wheel the shape fully into the blank, make sure it is correct side to side and front to back.

    2. Turn down the first fold using the flat anvil in the Wheel.

    Should I turn it partially and then shrink then turn some more...etc. or do I turn it down fully then shrink the edge to gain back the shape? Peter could you explain a little more about how shrinking the edge makes the panel tight? I don't fully understand this as if the panel is the correct shape before then shrinking it should bring it back to that shape (at least that's what I thought).

    3. After shrinking and getting the roof profile correct again (side to side, and front to back) then turn the second fold back up.

    Can I use the flat anvil in the wheel to do this? Turn up gradually and wheel the edge to stretch it.

    If I do this correctly the panel will maintain it's shape? Can I still wheel the panel (if needed) after making the second turn up? Or should I control the shape by stretching that edge only?


    Sorry for all the questions but I am getting frustrated failing so many times.
    Last edited by Chris_Hamilton; 29-04-21, 03:37 AM.

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  • Chris_Hamilton
    commented on 's reply
    I'll post a pic in the morning. (middle of the night for you Ozzies)

  • Kiwi john
    replied
    7 Use your new anvil and a tipping wheel !

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  • Kiwi john
    replied
    Hi Chris,

    As we were doing this as a quick and dirty tutorial to cover the basics we didn't worry about the slight curvature at each side . Here are my thoughts. Peter will chime in but there are a couple of ways to achieve the gentle arc over that 100 mm or so ( 4 inches.)

    1 use a finger brake only to do the straight section. and progressively bend it while you form the outer bits by hand using a piece of bar with a slice cut into it
    2 fold the edge with a soft line then use a bolster to move the outer line forward to the radius you need
    3 do the whole job by hand using a bolster and chaser
    4 make an mdf former and use it as a buck
    5 make the cant rails wider at that point and do that part and the tight radius section by hand
    6 shrink the 100 mm section to match the profile

    Yes to the second question.

    Can you post a photo of the two areas so that others can understand the part we are referring to.

    Cheers Johnny

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris_Hamilton
    replied
    Awesome stuff guys. Big thank you for posting this.😀

    Peter, John, couple of questions. On the rear panel, You mention that Peter turned the first edge on a brake. How did you account for the curve of that edge? Specifically as it nears the edges. It is not a straight line. When you were turning the second flange back up is it a good idea if doing it by hand with pliers to progressively turn a small section, stretch it and then move on, like is shown in the pictures?

    And just to satisfy my curiosity, Peter, how long would you estimate the total time it would take you to do the roof skin in the 5 pieces as shown? I was amazed that you said you thought you could do the entire skin in one piece in 35 hours.


    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Tommasini
    replied
    Originally posted by Blue62 View Post

    I was going to wait until after your next video on the joggle portion of the guard. Then give it a good go.
    In the meantime I have been attempting to do the headlight area of a front Healey guard.
    It kicks my ass most times But I am beginning to figure it out little by little I think..
    I have been thinking about doing a posting on it.
    So far it would be all my failed attemtps. LOL
    Failing attempts are good for learning ...do not give up !
    Peter T.

    Leave a comment:


  • Blue62
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Tommasini View Post

    David how is the Healey guard going ? Making progress?
    Peter T.
    I was going to wait until after your next video on the joggle portion of the guard. Then give it a good go.
    In the meantime I have been attempting to do the headlight area of a front Healey guard.
    It kicks my ass most times But I am beginning to figure it out little by little I think..
    I have been thinking about doing a posting on it.
    So far it would be all my failed attemtps. LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Tommasini
    replied
    Originally posted by Blue62 View Post
    Great pictures and write up.
    Thanks
    David how is the Healey guard going ? Making progress?
    Peter T.

    Leave a comment:


  • Blue62
    replied
    Great pictures and write up.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Chazza
    replied
    Fantastic work chaps! Thank you for taking the time to show us all,

    Cheers Charlie

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Tommasini
    replied
    Originally posted by Kiwi john View Post
    You're too fast on the buzzer Pete !!!!!!!
    Sorry I didn't know if the last pics come out that would have been a shame

    Leave a comment:


  • Kiwi john
    replied
    You're too fast on the buzzer Pete !!!!!!!

    Leave a comment:

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