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Plymouth Arrow Hood Modification

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  • #16
    Thanks guys!


    About done with the hood, time to put it together.

    Before welding in place, some NVM Dampening Material from 3M is used, so dabs were added to the bottom side of the hood skin where the brace flanges would rest.








    16 gauge cold rolled steel is used under the brace as a heat block for welding. The brace Is clamped, then tacked in place.








    The seam is TIG welded in short beads and checked the outside hood skin for heat, let cool and continued in that fashion. Welds were dressed on flat areas of flange, those left will likely get a bit of filler to match the radius contours found elsewhere.











    A video shows the entire underside...


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvVjRLtrYZY




    .

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    • #17
      I really like this thread, Robert. Thanks for posting.

      Very seriously, my goal is to do accurate work that looks this good and this subtle. I'm going to start by remaking parts I've already done.

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      • #18
        Thanks Clint! I prefer any deviation from stock to be a nice subtle change to keep people guessing and scratching their head...



        Last picture I took, Topside with some epoxy on the bare parts....


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        • #19
          Originally posted by MP&C View Post

          Pugsy, 3M NVM dampening material, PN 04274. Supposed to stay pliable to allow hood skin movement. It needs the special gun to dispense and costs in the neighborhood of $50 +/- depending on where you get it.



          Click image for larger version Name:	36660B11-CE49-4FF8-81DB-AF8D240EC27D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	1.87 MB ID:	2533
          Thanks Robert.
          Pugsy

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          • #20
            Robert, I love not only the accuracy and care for detail of your work, but also the time that you take to help the rest of us understand method and tools.

            Thank you!

            Cheers Charlie

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            • #21
              Hi, Good looking work.

              Bill

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              • #22
                Robert ..Nice job I like your working position when turning the flange for the wire
                Peter T.

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